I'm gonna ignore the OP suggestions and just ask because I'm going bloody wonko and I'm hoping someone will take pity.

I want to print a classic boxnought. I have found a perfect 1:1 body & legs. I have found almost every gun ever released for the chassis and a few that never were. I have found Wolfy Wolf bits and Emo Vampire bits, I even found a fucking Librarian dread.

But nowhere, not on trannygram, not on cults, not by searching can I find a basic ordinary motherfucking power fist arm for the regular coffin-fronted Castraferrum that's better than a vague approximation. Does one even exist, and if yes where can I find it?

>>98867452
best I can do is contemptor 1:1s
Can I have the libby?

How long did it take (you) to get set up and printing miniatures successfully, at the very beginning?

I'm tempted to buy a print set up to save myself some $$ with a couple armies but I'm worried about the time sink aspect of 3D printing. Finding 1-1 stls, slicing, supporting, test prints...how long does it actually take from zero to hero?

>>98870058
Couple days if you mean setup.
Couple weeks if you mean getting your settings right and making sure everything works optimally.
Plan on getting resin or filament? remember resin needs its own room and filament needs more finagling and buying a smaller extruder thingy for anything close to miniature quality.

>>98870058
I started printing the hour after I got it out of the box and sliced something.
I had it properly figured out enough to produce miniatures to paint in 48 hours.
That is only because the provided slicer was lifting supports a centimetre off the build plate when I clicked "slice" if it weren't for the provided slicer being buggy I would have been successfully printing the first try.

Thinking of getting an FDM printer for terrain and large models for one off games, plus other non /tg/ related stuff. What're you folks using for those? I'm between a P1S and a CC2. Paste looks a bit outdated.

>get the anycubic water washable resin, the latest version
This good enough right? Or is there better abs-like resins?
I'm mostly printing very fine and thin figures at the moment so I want good material.

>>98870596
I got a P2S earlier in the year and I haven't made too many terrain peices yet but as long as you are okay making stuff out of one color it's been pretty great. While it can do mutli-color prints, if it's too complicated then it wastes so much filament between changing rolls that I don't think it's worth. I also sometimes wish I had the bigger bed for doing very wide prints but that's more for cosplay items and not tabletop terrain. I've been happy with Bambu so far and I think a P1S/P2S is good for 90% of terrain and stupid stuff I wanted to make.

>>98871198
Hard to say at the moment because water washable resin still has that "brittle" reputation. That may be out of date now but still repeated as a present fact.

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>>98871556

>>98867452
Might want to post an image of exactly what you're looking for, but this is the best I've got from my understanding
Doesn't seem to be exact replica model though, judging from a few details

>>98870058
My understanding is resin is pretty quick from the start, but fdm takes a lot of tweaking and learning to start getting half decent mini quality stuff
If you haven't found any stl models yet, I would maybe start there to see if you are interested, because it can be a bitch to find what you want (depending on what you want), and this can put people off
Finding/hoarding stls can be a small hobby in of itself

>>98869295
Huh, well bad news since I noticed it seems to have been sent to the gulag. Creator was Komodomookiru on cults, maybe he just does random days up and down to avoid attention? Or you could try looking on trannygram with his name.

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>>98871589

>>98871522
Yeah pretty much that's the level of what I've been able to find - either lower detail, or the proportions are off, or people trying to "update" the look to be "more modern" etc. I'm just after the basic melee arm & fist with storm bolter, flamer, melta options that looks like it actually does on the mini, picrel(not mine). Multiple poses would be cool, as would the other "hands" like the chainfist or siege drill, but I'll take anything "accurate" at this point.

It's mental to me that it's easy to find every ranged weapon - even random HH ones or completely custom stuff that's never had rules or a model - but even after all these years there's still no bog-standard power fist arm that looks right.

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>>98871556
Seems to be the case with a lot of random basic stuff
This appears to be the best/most relevant stuff I have if any of it looks right enough
Judging from how clean the models are though, I assume they are not proper scans

I want to sell all my printed minis just so that I can buy more resin and print more.. I may have a problem

>>98870596
Do you really need a fancy enclosed printer for that? A basic Bambu A1 printing in PLA should be good enough for terrain and large models.

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>>98878898

Wanted to print something after a clean, picked this

How the fuck do I use telegram without a phone number?

>>98871419
Sounds good
>>98871932
I like how they look more. I guess I can justify it though; I'm gonna be putting it in a cold garage during the winter and closed ones can keep constant heat right?

>>98872688
>I'm gonna be putting it in a cold garage during the winter and closed ones can keep constant heat right?
Yeah, and I suppose an enclosed printer looks and works better than an open printer in a tent.

>>98870596
Snapmaker U1, but for a TT only usecase it's actually overdimensioned. But i could write it of taxes so i didn´t care. Something like a Kobra S1 or P1S would be more fitting

>>98872688
What's your definition of cold? right now 5C is t-shirt and shorts weather for me.

>>98873633
>>98873401
Negative fahrenheit is possible
>>98873595
I'll look into these thanks

>>98873595
I second the U1 its ability to print with multiple heads makes it perfect for wargame applications - mine has two 0.2mm heads and two 0.4mm heads, in each pair one is loaded with high flow PLA and other with whatever cheapshit PETG I find on sale. Using PETG as support material lets you print with zero-clearance between the prints and support interface so you get much cleaner and more consolidated surfaces, on a lot of model geometries it looks as good as if it was printed straight to the bed, and because they're dissimilar materials the supports just pop right off.

That said >>98873785, no affordable printer is going to handle a frozen garage very well. Quite apart from any struggles you might have getting prints to work, that machine is going to guzzle energy to maintain the printhead and bed temps, and more than that frequently letting plastic and rubber components get down to negative temps when you're not using the machine will fatigue them.

IME you should never be using machinery that isn't designed for it in freezing temps, and you should never store anything with non-metallic components at less than 10C, ideally not less than 15.

I already have a S4U 16k with hoopat x4h which makes it super easy to use, and now I just saw a good deal on a photo p1 max I'm thinking about.

>>98871198
I was using anycubic 3.0 with 20% tough mixed in. It was okay but thin parts were still an issue and needed IPA to rinse.
Using Wargamer now and it is so much better. Water washable and quite a bit more flexible without being fragile. Cost sucks taint though.

>>98877553
What's the wargamer resin?

I've been using anycubic abs-like 2.0 (non water washable) mixed 15% Siraya tenacious, and its ~$20 AUD/kg

>>98877553
>>98878380
none of you formula fags ever got the idea to mix resin on your own, you're just doing what the internet told you.
There is no reason to mix resins, most any resin will do right out of the bottle on it's own.
We aren't printing miniatures to use as fucking baseballs.

>>98871947
What are you trying to 3D print? It looks like a bunch of knights motorboating a dragon girl

Does anyone here have any experience with loot studios fdm prints? They look really good but all I can find are obviously paid shill reviews.

>>98878601
>Drop print
>Shatters
>Bend thin part
>Breaks
>Add some tenacious
>Doesn't shatter or break anymore
Mixing tenacious allows me to use super cheap resin like anycubic abs-like 2.0 or elegoo abs-like 3.0, both which I've gotten at $14.50 AUD/kg for a 10 pack. Its way cheaper than buying a premade drop resistant resin.

>>98878898
Its a wholesome knight carrying his clothes sfw wife

>>98878909
I have no experience with printing their stuff but I do have a few of their models. Too busy printing other crap. They've been around a while, anyway. As far as pre supported stuff, I make a habit of double checking the work no matter who put the model out.

>>98878380
Fauxhammer Wargamer. Runs about $80CAD/kg compared to ~$25/kg for the other mix. It is noticeably nicer to use though.

Hey, sorry if this is a dumb request, just curious on what you guys consider a good, economical printer for a brokie looking to get into 3d printing.

>>98879983
What are you mostly wanting to print? Resin printers will get you very high detail models so if miniatures are important to you, go that route although it requires more set up and equipment as opposed to FDM. Those printers are better for game components and terrain, are much cheaper and easier, but at the cost of fine details. You can still print minies with an FDM printer that are completely suitable for pushing around the table but you will never get close to the quality of a Resin printer. FDM also gives you better options for printing non gaming stuff, in all kinds of different materials.
Elegoo makes some really good beginner Resin printers and bambu labs is the current gold standard for plug and play FDM.
The mars 5 is a great beginner resin printer and the A1 mini is a good FDM
Both run about $250.

>>98879983
What kind of stuff do you want to print and what's your general budget?

>>98880116
>>98880017
I'm wanting to print miniatures mostly, and my budget is nonexistent right now, I'm mostly just fishing for advice and floating the idea around in my head. I'm guessing I could realistically save up 300-400 bucks in a reasonable time frame if I tried. Do stl model kits exist? Like, for planes and tanks and gunpla?

>>98880162
You'd be look at a mars size printer. Resin for minis desu. You can get decent minis with a 0.2mm nozzle on fdm, just be aware that its quite slow to do so for even a single mini and not as good as resin still. A mars 5 ultra is like 380 USD atm, and there's plenty of others below that level and other brands so it's certainly doable. That said it comes with other initial startup costs: washing and curing the minis, and resin of course, box of disposable nitrile gloves etc. I suppose you could go water washable resin, and use old ice cream containers to wash in, and cure in the sun for a minute to be ultra cheap to start with. You may be under estimating the start up cost. Don't forget to get spare PFA for your vat.. you might damage it or put a hole it in as a first timer desu. If you were id give you a bottle of some expired (but still perfectly good) abs-like I have laying around

As for stl costs.. yes there are lots and lots of stls on telegram and other places, as well as legit free stls you can try out.

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>>98881271 >>98896985

>>98880162
>>98879983
Isnt it better to just find a group or a service/rentable printer? Often you dont print that much to get the money back.
Thats why so many do a print services.

>>98875242
What's the advantage the hoopat x4h resin tray to the standard one? Paying 80 EU buckerinos for a quick-release tray sounds lil' excessiv

Does the z-axis anti aliasing with Dragonfruit slicer actually work well? I mostly use Chitu but getting rid of any stair stepping sounds pretty cool.

Does anybody has the STL for the Macharius Tank from Solutionlesn?
Would even pay but I found it only on one side and there Paypal doesnt work.
Thanks in advance!

>>98880368
People enjoy the hobby of printing.

>>98881271
But thats expensive and you dont have that much space for all the things you print.

>>98881602
Same for wood working. What's your point?

>>98867452
aHR0cHM6Ly9tZWdhLm56L2ZpbGUvM2RFRkZMRFMjVkZnc0hmellZZGtIdUY0ajVRMnRfZzJyRmR5VVFNLXBEcWlsTy16aXBXVQ==

aHR0cHM6Ly9tZWdhLm56L2ZpbGUvWFFjVUdCaFEja3ppYm4yUXRraDdDNGhzTU5WUlFFaUxFN3Z2NmFBRUViNzh3dDZvT1l3Zw==

>>98881035
Not sure if this will work, the compressed size is 10% of the uncompressed size which doesn't seem right to me.
aHR0cHM6Ly9tZWdhLm56L2ZpbGUvdllOQURJWkMjWmFRc0EzRU4tZzdVdUZrNVZ1MTdSNl9ua0ktTjVYTHFIeHZXRE5zZ2Y3TQ==

>>98881702
Many many thanks it works!

>>98879581
>drop
>bend
Again, we're not printing these to play ping pong with them, they are meant to be gently handled by adults and/or put on display.

>>98880639
On my s4u 16k I had 2 original vats, both permanently leak from the frame/vat itself. Because it's around the outside this leaks into the tilt gap which funnels it directly into the stepper.

The hoopat (new) comes with a gasket. Its leak free so far, and it makes printing much easier now. The PFA install is exactly the same tension every time, so it is consistent and pulls the same, I don't have to fuck around as much with the vat, meaning the PFA lasts longer (for me) as well, x4h is also heated like the original elegoo

>>98881636
Woodworking, you fix your roof or door. You can do that with minimal costs.

>>98882621
That's carpentry not woodworking. If you had a dad, you would know the difference.

>>98881602
Space? I'm printing miniatures, they don't take up much space.

>>98883190
We all know how we are. A mini here, a mini there. It all sums up in the end.
And when you have the costs and put alot of work in mastering the machine, you want to print a little bit more.
When you have a new hammer, everything will look like a nail.

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>>98882643
Why so aggressive? And thats nearly the same set of skills and tools. And for its working with wood. Dont split some hairs.

>>98883446
And? I've printed and painted hundreds of minis in the last few years, it still barely takes up more square footage than an end table with a lamp on it. I even have my old skateboard tucked into the same corner between a couch and the wall.
I haven't even gone bespoke on the shelving.

>>98883796
Ok. You have a point. Minis take rather less space than what i wrote.

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>>98890180 >>98890182 >>98890253

I don't even know what game I would play it in, but I had a powerful urge to model a starfighter.

>>98889381
Looks rad; makes me wish Silent Death was still being published

>>98889381
The wings look like from 40k.

Has anyone successfully used a PFA coating like pfte or krytox GPL 105? Think my PFA needs changing, it's around 75k and some supports failed in a small area a couple times now. May as well change the film, but I wanted to push this one to 100k

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>>98900601

>>98889381
Voidfighter looks fun.

Found a used saturn 4 for $250 that comes with some resin and a vent. Is this a good buy? Never had a resin printer but I do have storage for it and I'm somewhat familiar with safety and disposal practices. I'd be printing 40k minis, preferably including things as big as standard vehicles /maybe Imperial Knights or a bloodthirster. Not really looking to do anything like a baneblade lol.
the volume is 218.88 × 122.88 × 220 mm and the micron res is like 19x24 or something for reference. Thanks for the advice /answering my retarded question in advance. i checked the pastebin its just old as fuck methinks

>>98892505
Yup saturn 4 for 250 is a good deal if it works.

Shit. I can get the P1 Max down to 1127 AUD. Do I dare?

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>>98896028 >>98899671

The winter cold is already here where I am in Canada.
What should I be concerned about when printing in a Canadian winter?

>on a different note
>$79.99 CDN
What's the closest resin that just works to this product if pic related is as good as it is advertised? Or is it an overpriced meme like so many wargamer/TTRPG focused products?

>>98867197
>3D printer supposed to save money
>gets set up
>desire to pay STL makers who know their stuff for specific models
My wallet's bucks are gonna get broken. At least my money is going to artists just trying to get by right?

>>98895675
getting into 3d printing to save money is always the biggest trap. unless youre printing 2+ 2000 point armies, you ain't saving money, that includes ignoring time spent. 3d print to print cool minis. its good to hear people are supporting artists who are making stuff.
I do feel you though. as a skirmish war gamer, it eats me to buy a set of 2 minis for $10. $5 a mini is plastic prices. a mix of piracy and paying always seems to be the best solution. or just waiting for sales.

>>98894722
get a heater for your enclosure, thats basically it. unless you have one of those heated vats, then really no problems. (as long as its in a garage or something attached to the house. if its in a separate shed unheated, you might still want to warm up the machine before printing)
Anycubic abs-like 2.0 (or 3) does just as good a job, id assume. ive never had issues with it once i dialed it in, and drop plenty of minis with hand tremors.

>>98880368
Printing services usually ask about 2-3 usd per infantry miniature. This means that it would take about 130 minis to cover my initial investment, including expendable supplies and resin.
10 months after purchasing my setup, I've printed close to 250 minis (rough estimate, counting larger, multipart monsters as 5 or more minis) without getting even close to duplicating my initial investment. Having my own printer has also allowed me to do some prints for friends, try my hand at sculpting and printing my own models and also employing those skills to sculpt and print stuff on commission. To me, it's been an undeniable met gain.
Of course, if you just need some 5-10 minis every now and then, and are also uninterested in the printing hobby, then a printer will be a waste of money.

>>98881602
>>98883446
Most of us are adults with disposable money. I also live in a house, so there's space for my workshop and space to store and play with minis. Even in a limited space you can be smart and manage whatever difference you've got available. All in all, compared to other hobbies, 3d printing is cheaper and has a smaller footprint for both your tools and finished work than many other hobbies.

The leftest bans and laws regulating on 3d printing over "guns" are really intentionally engineered to disrupt 3d printing for their leftist contributors in Hollywood who own IP because it will kill licensed tie ins to shit like star wars

How do you reuse/clean microfibre clothes? Do you just leave them in the sun to cure then try to wash them? Just for using as the first passes as cleaning surfaces so I can save fresh clothes for leftover residue only after initial clean

>>98897743
Gay Luigi truly made some billionaires paranoid, but would this really have a knock effect on 3D printed rooty-tooty-point-and-shooties for miniatures?

I don't normally do.. or haven't at all yet printed anything from 40K. So I need a couple recommendations, a friend wants a few minis to paint, so looking for recommendations for something that's good and detailed. The usual 30-70mm range.

>>98899059
3D printed firearms are/were perfectly legal in the U.S. etc and there were some other countries where they were needed. I generally support the idea of independent stuff like that despite not owning any firearms or living somewhere that allows it. And I think iirc they did want to not just clamp down on printed firearms, but use it as leverage to get regulation into printing, control and monitoring of what people print, restrictions, among other things

Did anyone try out dragonfruit slicer? I wonder if it can become an actual competitor to lychee and such

>>98894722
I've seen people use fermentation belts tied around the plastic cover of the printer with good results

>>98899671
>Did anyone try out dragonfruit slicer? I wonder if it can become an actual competitor to lychee and such
Performance wise on Linux, it shits all over lychee. Auto supports are a bit of a mess and manual support placement feels clunky. It also crashes after a while, but thankfully has auto saving.
It's promising, but has a long way to go. I use it simply because lychee has utter dog shit performance. If I drop a single space marine torso into lychee it becomes a slide show; basically impossible to put together a full build plate in lychee.

>>98899671
>>98899821
I tried it. It'll get better. It has a lot of UI problems. Just annoying things that you have to click bath and forth between things. Auto plate additions when adding a new object. Many things that make it more annoying to use in general. It seemed to be a lot more laggy as well in UI performance which is annoying. Hollowing seemed to be a fair bit quicker than Chitu though.

The estimated print time was way off. Almost double what it actually was in reality. Anti aliasing feature seems nice. Hopefully auto/magic supports can improve.

It was honestly a rude shock doing FDM for so long and then getting into resin and the sliders you not only have to pay for, but subscribe to, can't even buy the fucker one off, what a joke.

I'm sure it can improve quick. I honestly don't mind using AI developed stuff if it's good and people are even altering camera firmware with AI assistance and reverse engineering more complex shit. I'm sure we can get great improvements to dragon fruit or a fork of it quickly too and move from that subscription bs.

I've been trying to source some alternative left arms for a swordsman army. Can I find any? Can I hell.

All conversion bits are just fucking 40K so all the arms are powerfists and chainswords. I just need a fucking generic human sword arm. I'm not good enough to sculpt my own and I don't want to buy an STL of an entire model when all I need are left arms.

If anyone has any ideas where I can actually get some from I'd appreciate it, this is infuriating.

>>98899059
You have been able to make guns with a piece of pipe, some spare wire, spring and a nail so long as you had ammunition to fit the pipe since forever.
Likewise with proper tools one can machine a proper gun as well since forever.

3D printed guns are, as anon pointed out, merely an instrument to regulate other things on printers, GW will be one of the first to line up for funding politicians who make laws on the topic.

>>98900188
Uhhhhh you do know about the mirror function, right? you can turn right into left at the push of a button....

>>98890253
what the fuck is this AI slop picture? it makes no sense

>>98900188
vae victis gives out a massive arm pack for free if you pick up any of their men at arms packs

>>98900601
funny to complain about ai with the slop fdm print as the head image.
also, its not ai dawg, just a weird angle trying to convey speed and excitement.

>>98900703
And?
>This is a general for everything 3D printed relating to /tg/
This is 3D printing general, fdm is 3D printing

>>98902110
He's complaining about the slop generated models, not the prints themselves.

>>98897743
Man Sidebrain really is fucking terminal isn't it. Yeah some leftists use regulating guns as an excuse for control or doing the bidding of corporate masters: rightoids use PrOtEcTiNg ThE cHiLdREn, and centritards use muh national security. Authoritarian bullshit should be opposed no matter what rosette it pins on, but dumb cunts like you will always cheer it on because you have no principles, just the mentality of a retarded football fan.

>>98899024
Why are you wiping prints at all? You put them in a vat of IPA and agitate it when with an ultrasonic bath, a wash & cure/magnetic stirrer, or just elbow grease and an old pokey stick/toothbrush/whatever. If you find you're still getting residue, you get two vats of alcohol and put the models in first one, then repeat with the other. Done properly you should never need to resort to physically wiping down a print.

As for any cloths you have already contaminated, you leave them under UV/the sun to cure and then you throw them in the garbage. Even if you were to clean them with alcohol, there would still be little particles of resin in the fabric that would cure when exposed to daylight and leave you with what in practice would be sandpaper cloths.

>>98902579
I'm not wiping prints I'm wiping surfaces to clean resin off surfaces resin inevitably gets onto. Not prints. A used microfibre when spraying fresh IPA on the surface will inevitably leave a tiny amount of resin and leave a slightly sticky surface. Hence I'd like to reuse/clean the used microfibre cloths.

>>98902203
I genned a model on meshy I might print.

>>98902779
I fingered your mum on the cunt I might shag

>>98902853
Looks a little better once it's printed, has some Star Wars vibes

I've been trying to goad this piece of junk into not leaving flat bottom layers with nothing on top or skipping layers while having the buildplate partially peeling off and i think i've tried every trick I can find. PTFE lubricant, heated up the resin, new FEP and screen protector, 3.300s exposure time. 13 bottom layers, 34sec bottom exposure time, 60mm/m bottom lift speed and 120/mm reg lift speed. Machine is an anycubic photon mono m5s and it was fine until this summer and even with the temperature changes the hot water bath to heat the resin bottle usually made it fine.

>>98902853
I appreciate the A6 intruder refueling probe.

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>>98903714

Looking into buying a 3d printer. Heard Elegoo is good. But Autocad isn't a program you just buy? Is there like a "autocad for people who are not industrial corporations printing plastic slop"?

>>98903678
I have the elegoo s4u 16k. It's good in terms of results and quality you can achieve, built in vat heater, prints fast etc. But it's has so many design flaws I'd call it defective by design. I got mine on preorder when it came out, and I got a 2nd vat. Both my vats developed permanent leaks (not from the fep). There is a gap around the screen because it tilts yeah. The internal components and electronics are completely exposed to that gap. The gap actually guides resin directly into the X stepper motor for any leaks, and can easily get into the screen as well. Effectively, leaks are potentially disastrous on this printer, more so than others.

I've recently revived this printer by getting a hoopat x4h vat that comes with a gasket (it's so much better than stock vat). I love this vat and it now makes the printer easy af to use, and once stuff is dialed in its a kind of it just works (most of the time).

Elegoo are also a bunch of cunts desu.

The tilting vat cuts peak peel forces by up to 90% allegedly, while the wave release film anycubic uses in the P1 cuts it by up to 60%. This helps in successful prints.

Ive actually been able to print quite large object prints with nothing but light auto supports, so I'd say it does help a lot.

Others to look into:
Anycubic P1
Uniformation GK3

Im thinking about picking up a P1 Max for a larger printer, looks pretty good

>>98903482
What's actually failing, support to model tip connections or what? Have you tried using a 1s rest before release time as well?

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>>98903727 >>98903764 >>98903773 >>98905299 >>98906457

Found this image from here: >>98901476
How true is this image in being "all one needs" for a 3D printing setup?

>>98903718
I am also curious about this
I find a lot of "great 4chan advice" turns out to be trolling, or posting by idiots who have no actual clue and therefore indistinguishable from trolling, so I am wary.

>>98902774
Okay that makes marginally more sense.

1. Like I said, you really can't, you might get one or two additional goes out of them but the "soft and absorbent" thing will go away as resin particles cure in it even if you do wash them with pure alcohol. Use paper towels, cure them until any resin residue is hard(a handheld UV torch makes this faster), then chuck 'em in the garbage.
2. Rather than constantly rebuying cloths or using loads of paper ones, cover your worktops in silicone - large sheets of it with a formed lip to prevent spills can be had cheaply off Amazon under various names related to dog feeding trays. That way when stuff drips or spills you just blast it with UV and peel up the cured resin, no wiping necessary.

>Got memed into ordering one of the new Formlabs "affordable" machines now my Mars is dying
>Apparently "launched" means "preorder for fucking February"
God damnit.

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>>98903773 >>98905186 >>98905299 >>98907649

>>98903718
So Elegoo ABS-Like 3.0 as pictured I have experience with. It is more difficult to wash than other resins I have used. And in order to keep my final wash clean and clear it needed 4 prewashed staged upwards, not 1. Anycubic ABS-Like 2.0 washes better, and takes 2 prewashes to effectively keep final wash clear enough. Both prewashes look dirty.

I've tried to build a filter system with a pump, I've left dirty IPA in sealed containers in the sun to clean up, even used a vevor water distiller to distill dirty IPA into pure fresh actually clean IPA (it does work, but sometimes dirty IPA can turn into jello instead as it concentrates in the vessel which is a PITA).

The bucket method is legitimately the easiest, simplest and cheapest way to keep clean IPA. You simply prewash your prints in dirty IPA, then progressively cleaner IPA.
If your final wash starts getting dirty and needs changing then simply pour it out into bucket 1. But pour bucket 1 into bucket 2 first and so on. Then add fresh IPA to final wash. Then you rinse your parts in bucket 2, then in bucket 1 then wash in final wash etc. Just keep lids on the bucket. If you cascade down like this it'll naturally balance for enough prewash stages to keep your final wash clean. I always rub the surface of my prints in the IPA gently with gloves, as there is usually a film the IPA doesn't pull off properly on its own from simply sitting in it.

And how much IPA you need and use depends on your print size. My final wash takes 6-7 litres to stay full. But if your printing minis only you may have a small wash and cure station and can use those 2L Bunnings buckets which are 50 cents atm. For full size parts I use 10L bunnings buckets with lids. I have a little basket I made that works for minis with tiny parts that fits in the 2L buckets and my wash/cute station. Petg is IPA compatible for this.

>>98903759
You do realise if you want to use normal affordable resin you can't actually use the normal vat right? The normal cheaper vat uses the specialised expensive proprietary film that's designed on purpose to be incompatible with every other resin. You have to use the specialised pro vat that uses the normal PFA film.

And when you need to change the film.. you cant. You throw the vat out and buy a new one.

>>98903764
>>98903727
>>98903718
And if your bucket dirty IPA starts leaving crud on the prints you need to filter the particles out. If it's been sitting for a while you can decant it and filter the rest that's settled (I actually use a big 100mL syringe to suck up the cleaner top layer myself and transfer to a clean bucket). But a large funnel and coffee filters and a bit of time does it (likely you'll need to change filters after they get clogged, pour the remainder in the filter back into the original, change filters and use a fresh one). I try to filter only when it starts being needed, as it takes time and can lose of IPA over time if you do it frequently.

Managing staged buckets is much less fucking around, as much as I like the idea of distilling IPA, I need to be able to extra the IPA from resin-IPA jello to make that more viable.

>>98903767
Yes because you see, I'm not a fucking moron, so I did in fact do a modest amount of research before just wiping my arse with the best part of a grand.

And for the record, I'm just explaining my reasoning here, not trying to shill them, it absolutely isn't the best choice for everybody.

It costs more, but the point is that it JuSt WuRkS without having to quadruple glove and wear a respirator and piss about with resin mixing and blah blah blah. I'm tired of 3D printing being an additional hobby in and of itself, I had enough of that with the Ender 3 and original Photon. The Alpha Model resin costs about the same and has similar properties to the Siraya Fast/Flex mixture I was already using but is both low odour and low VOC. The "basic" tank works out at a similar price as a pack of high quality film(sure you can order it in bulk rolls from China and cut it yourself for gigacheap, but be real who the fuck is bothering with that) and should ostensibly last almost as long as using them all, overall it's probably ~20% more expensive, not having to faff with changing the sheet makes that worth it for me personally. The "open material" vats are more expensive and don't "support" changing the FEP, but the screws are accessible and I expect it won't take the community long to figure out which sheets are the best match for whatever Formlabs are using in that vat and design a jig to get the right tension for user replacement. In any case, I'll have run down my modest stockpile of Siraya by the time the machine arrives and only consider the "open" vat as insurance against Formlabs pulling a Bambu in the future, for now I have no intention to use anything but the Alpha resins.

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>>98903879 >>98904166

>>98903823
I did the same thing from ender 3 to bambu so I get it, I want my printer to work so I can make stuff and not constantly work on my printer while not making stuff.

But Im not seeing it's only 20% more expensive to run as realistic. Regardless of what printer or resin you're running you should be getting something like pic related anyway, do not blindly trust it in an enclosed space where it can build up because of claims. Ventilation is cheap and easy to setup.

Im going to setup a decently large triple filter purifier with several full room air changes per hour on top of this anyway. It's not that expensive in the long run, and it's simply better for you.

My S4U 16k went from PITA to it just works after moving to the hoopat x4h.

>>98903823
>>98903876
I also stick to resin mixing rather than premixed more expensive stuff. The reason being is that here, I can often get ABS-like resins for ~$14 AUD/kg and Siraya tenacious clear is $56 AUD/kg. It works out to making a 15% tenacious mix around $20 AUD/kg

>>98903876
If you're using the Alpha resins with their VOC filter box - which I will be - it's third-party certified as safe to use indoors in the context of a test that schools will accept as valid to let you use things that pass around kids, so I'm pretty happy with that. Again though, since I'm not a complete retard, the whole setup for all my printers is in a little studio attached to my garage workshop, where I have a properly rated mask hanging at the door for when I'm post-processing parts, and which is set up with both a mini-MVHR that slowly and continually cycles in fresh air when I'm inside, and which has a recirculating carbon filter air purifier in on the wall.

And the 20% was specifically in relation to consumable vats vs high quality FEP or whatever acronym they're using these days. I have no idea overall whether it will be more expensive at all or how much, depends how expensive the replacement components are, how often things like the screen unit need replacing, whether they keep the resin at the current price long-term or not(as I said, I already use a pretty expensive resin mix that costs about the same per litre as the Alpha Model, so as it stands that's a wash for me - in the UK Siraya aren't cheap), and whether the printer's anti-retard detection modes work when I'm having a dumbshit day(given I've seen videos of the machine detecting a tiny support remnant in the vat full of resin just by touching the build plate to the surface and jiggling it a little, knowing & communicating there was a foreign object, and refusing to run the print I'm hopeful burst membranes and cracked screens due to user error will be a thing of the past).

Like I said it isn't for everyone and it ain't cheap, but they really do seem to have brought all the parts of their insanely expensive professional grade machines that would matter to pleb users to a machine that pleb users can just about afford if they want that safe & seamless experience.

Question: does anyone know if any of the STL addon people have made weapon options to fit the new TOW Chaos Warrior plastics yet?

>>98904166
I don't know where this 20% figure comes from, it just doesn't add up. Its fine if you picked that printed, but these figures seem like a fabrication.

I changed my PFA at 75K after a few failures using light supports. Though the warning comes on at 60K. People tend to push it further. As soon as you bring ACF into the matter that's another 2-3x longer life than PFA.

The standard vat is 124 AUD from what I can see. PFA is about 46 AUD for 5 sheets, or about 60 AUD for the chitu version.

That vat is rated for 75K min peels, mine is rated for 60K but I happened to have changed it at 75K, let's assume 60K vs 75K.

That's 124 AUD for 75K vs 15 AUD for 75K (12 AUD for 60K). That's 8x higher running costs in film/vat.

In order for that to be 20% higher only, it'd need to reach a minimum of 500K lifts, while I'd have to have an absolute limit of 60K and not be able to push it further.

This isn't realistic

>>98903773
Mix your dirty IPA with water. Give it a couple cure cycles stirring in between. Then distill.
Pure IPA with all the crud left behind in the water. Easy enough to scrape the shit out while warm and then you can simply let it dry and throw it out.

>>98904331
It's realistic in my experience. I have never, ever had films last anywhere close to that long for a start. Secondly, your perspective is distorted by being a Crim, you get shit from China waaaay cheaper than it is once it's travelled halfway around the world and been subject to tarrifs, duties, processing fees, and 20% VAT. Finally, while the Formlabs vat is rated for a *minimum* of 75K peels, the fact you're never going to be changing resins out with the associated wear, almost never needing to run cleaning sheet cycles with the associated wear, have no risk of ever getting the tension slightly wrong when swapping and thus accelerating wear etc etc etc means it will almost certainly run for a lot longer than that with no issues.

I'm not interested in hypothetical maximums using hypothetical prices, over here most 3D printing stuff is pricey unless you buy absolute unmitigated trash off aliexpress and the ongoing costs of the Studio 1 compares favourably given all the ease of use benefits.

>>98903727
>>98903764
>>98903773
Thanks guys!
One can never be too careful when it comes to 4chan advice as some of it could be trolling. Just with internet advice in general really.
I skimmed the FAQ pastebin and managed to not find a 3D printing site dedicated to FAQ stuff. My setup is almost complete, but winter is closing in fast.

Generally it is safe to order resin off amazon during the winter as it won't "spoil from the cold" right?

I am looking at SunLu ABS and Anycubic ABS like resins. I'm not sure which one is better for resilient miniatures that can survive falling off a table.
I'm looking at SUNLU ABS Like Resin (dark grey) at the moment.
I think if the resin has more flex it means it will be more resilient so things like sword tips don't break. Is this true for resins?

>>98903718
>all one needs
I'd say it's a little bit incomplete and you're going to see some variation based on each person's situation. I didn't follow the replies too closely, but here are some thoughts on the pic:
Resin cures best in the neighborhood of 20-30C range, loosely around 65-80F. Not everyone's going to have that issue though. Not sure if all newer printers include a chamber heater, so I'm mentioning this one. I run a tent with a heater and fume extraction but if I hadn't gotten one from an auction house, I would have probably gone looking for a really giant cardboard box.
I don't have/need AC where I am but I have to wonder about the location of the extractor fan in that pic because I feel like the duct fan is going to lose pull power having to draw from the AC space. I run mine straight out the window using a dryer hose duct that passes through a simple blocker.

Nitrile gloves and eye protection are probably a good idea. Some printer boxes will come with them but the gloves are going to be a consumable. It's important to get nitrile and not latex. Some folks will argue those aren't essential but if you're going to worry about acrylate VOCs with a respirator, it seems a little odd not to throw in other protective gear.

Optional:
I would add a couple of silicone rubber baking or pet food trays/mats to the list. They're more quality of life than essential though, but would making clean up way easier. Try to get one with a lip on the the edge to help deal with spills.


>>98903764
I've been wanting to try recycling with a distiller, might pull the trigger on that soon. I have this idea of using a thin film of PTFE oil to help keep the goop build up manageable.

>>98904654
It's not just unrealistic, it's smoking crack to even think this.

A formlabs 1 standard vat is going to cost you likely more than 10 sheets of PFA. Therefore if it's supposed to be in the ballpark of a similar cost the film in the vat needs to last about 10x or more as long as a single PFA does. And again ACF lasts 2-3x as long as PFA.

The rating is 75K for formlabs, for PFA it's 60K. That rating implies 1.25x as long, not 10x as long.

The minimum would need to be 500K on the formlabs for that to work out while the hard maximum on PFA would have to be fixed at 60K and unable to go past rhar, which also isn't the case as people push them well past that routinely.

The economics on the pro vat look worse, and allegedly that also uses PFA.

>>98905299
If you buy the water distiller get the temperature controlled one, it costs slightly extra but then you can set it to 78, 80, 84 etc and not have it try to slam up to 100+ like a kettle on your IPA.

>>98904449
If you add water you can only get 87.7% IPA back by distillation. You can't distill back to high purity 99% IPA. You can use these clay beads to soak up the water out of the distiller water/IPA mix, but again it's adding more stuffing around.

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>>98907010

Anyone know of any good chorf stls that match the aesthetics they had in TWW3? I like the modernised style

>>98905299
>and eye protection
When removing supports once a small piece catapulted off and nailed my right in the eye. So yes, some manner of eye protection (doesn't exactly have to be ballistic grade) can be nice to have.

>>98903718
This is more or less accurate. Hell, you don't even "need" all of this stuff. When I got started I used two empty pickle jars for washing (one clean, one dirty) and that served me well enough for years. I also didn't bother with ventilation until I wanted to shoot lacquer through my airbrush in the winter, so I rigged up a spray booth out of a grow tent and an inline fan (the exact Vevor in your pic actually, it moves more air than any other 4" fan that I've ever seen) and put two of my three printers in there because why not? I run the duct out with my dryer's duct. Let me know if you want some pics to give you ideas. The one thing that I'd add are that disposable surfaces are your friend in keeping things clean.
>p100 filter
Will do nothing to protect you from resin or IPA. You need an organic vapor cartridge, which may or may not be combined with a P100. Bear in mind that these cartridges use activated charcoal and have a finite lifespan that begins decreasing the moment that you open the packaging, whether or not you're breathing through it.
>elegoo abs-like
Elegoo ABS-like is a good starter resin because it's dirt cheap and it's real thin, which means that it's easy to work with. Don't be fooled by the "ABS-like" name, that's simply a marketing term that every manufacturer slaps on their resin these days, no matter how shitty it is. It's nothing like ABS, particularly if you over cure it like the manufacturer's instructions tell you to. I won't personally use it for gaming pieces any more because it's too fragile. Even when cut with some Tenacious it's borderline. Once you've got your work flow figured out and your settings dialed in, I highly recommend stepping up to a better resin after your Elegoo runs out.
>but everyone here says they're great!
Most of the people here don't play games with their minis. A good number of them don't even own printers. Be very careful with any advice that you receive here.

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>>98907018

>>98906457
I did 9-10% tenacious in elegoo abs-like 3.0 and it's a noticeable improvement but can still break when dropped, just lower chance. Anycubic abs-like 2.0 is the other dirt cheap resin atm, and with 15% tenacious I feel it's quite drop resistant at that level, and quite cheap still. I usually printer much larger stuff than minis, eg 1:6 figures and props, so dont tend to game with them, but I do make and test their stress limits and give them to other people.

>>98906033
Highlands Miniatures or Lost Kingdom.

>>98906755
>>98906457
By chance is there a 3D printing resin out there that is resilient enough to have a good chance to survive the drop from table to a hard floor? I'm new to 3D printing if STL hoarding doesn't count for anything.
Generally I'm looking for a starter resin that will just work on it's own before I go into mixes.
Tenacious looks a bit too expensive for starting resin before I learn to get the ropes done.

>>98907018
Siraya tenacious has different priced resins depend which you're looking at. If it's too expensive for starting with then you will not find a drop proof resin anyway.

My minis printed in my 15% tenacious mix with a 1 min cure time (rotating station) bounce off wooden floors at 6ft drop height. But they break at weak points from 6ft onto hard tiles which is a more difficult test. Maybe at 20-30% they would survive.

Your table probably isn't on hard tiles at a height of 6ft.

But basically, there is no drop proof inexpensive resin that you do not mix yourself.

The ultra and tough labelled resins from anycubic and elegoo should be better at dropping than any standard or abs-like, but again it's priced above abs-like resin and I generally don't find those on sale or if they are they're already sold out, and I can't comment on their exact performance.

My mix is rather cheap, I get the anycubic abs-like 2.0 in a 10kg lot thats on sale for about ~$10 USD/kg (elegoo abs-like 3.0 is sometimes this price as well), and Siraya is about ~$40 USD/kg. I currently mix 177g into 1kg of this. This results in a tougher resin for about ~$14.50 USD/kg.

For reference the elegoo abs-like 3.0 shatters easily for me dropped onto wooden floors, and I haven't tried the anycubic undiluted but imagine that's the same.

For the elegoo Im talking about the original, I haven't tried the 3.0+ or 3.0 pro or ultra which may all be improved.

>>98907115
Fair enough then, anon.
My printer is an Anycubic brand one. I'm looking at the ABS-like resin 3.0 and the "pro 2" resin. I'm not sure what the primary differences are beyond "buzzword naming and numbers" and which one of the two would be better for wargaming miniatures.
But I am curious.
Are Anycubic and Elegoo basically the "AR vs AK" of 3D printing in that they are both good but have different philosophies? Which makes the better printer and which makes the better resin?

>>98907018
>>98907115
To simplify this, you need to define what hard floor means and from what height. Wooden floors are way "softer" than tiles (at least mine are) and are basically 2 completely different levels of stress tests on the print. You would have to try various resins, elegoo for example has so many variations to choose from it'll cost a bit of money just to do tests. YouTube mat have various comparisons for these already.

Siraya tech blu, Anycubic tough. I'd start with these and see if they're affordable for your purpose.

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>>98907166 >>98907186

>>98907121
Pic related. 15% tenacious mix (tenacious clear not tenacious flex) will not survive a single tile drop. But repeated wooden floor drops are okay. 15% takes it from poor to good but not invincible.

That's debatable. I have a S4U 16K. After getting the Hoopat vat it's become a much better printer. Both elegoo and anycubic have a wide variety of resins, so it's hard to say, and there's no way I'm going through and testing them all. I usually jump in and get a huge pack when I can get resin dirt cheap on sale if I'm going to either modify it anyway or use it for props etc.

For Elegoo ABS-Like 3.0 there are multiple variations of this. I still have like 30 bottles of the the plain 3.0 stuff. It is not what I call tough. In fact I would call it shatter prone resin. The Pro 2 in theory should be stronger but by how much Im not sure.

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>>98907186

>>98907132
For reference thin parts like this can bend about this far, any further and it snaps off with this mix. I can flex the legs together a bit too but they're much thicker.

This is what basic ABS-like resins should be like (but are not), and it's below what tough resins should be like

>>98907132
>>98907166
Thanks anon! Thank you so much. I'll try the Anycubic Pro 2 unironically because brand name to get used to things. If it turns out to be a good "workhorse just works" resin then I might stick with it.
When they come back in stock of course. :(

>>98907186
Good luck anon, it's both rewarding and frustrating at the same time

>>98903764
Get yourself a wash and cure for the first wash anon (for the wash function, not the cure). Agitation is what gets most of the liquid resin off, you can't just dissolve it off.

>>98903773
The ipa turns to jello because it's curing while still. Constant stirring while curing solves the issue.