>>2082869
I used to work as a bicycle mechanic at a few shops. That was about a decade ago. No idea where the industry is at these days. How much demand is there for bike mechanics in the US these days? Is it still shit pay? If I get back into the industry am I gonna constantly be expected to work on faggots' motorcycles ("""ebikes""")? I don't follow industry trends much either, are bb standards, headset standards, etc all pretty similar to a decade ago or will I have a lot of new stuff to brush up on if I get back into the industry?

I have heard that with so many jobs being taken over by tech along with less people wanting to do physical labor, jobs like bike mechanic are paying a bit better and there is more demand for experienced bike mechanics. I could see that going either direction.

>>2082870
>How much demand is there for bike mechanics in the US these days?
zero because everything is proprietary, comes with a warranty that is specifically calculated to last one day less than the sum of parts, and anyone cheap enough to need service will just get a new 75$ bike off of Marketplace and anyone with a 10,000$ Tr*k will simply buy another 10,000$ Tr*k because the new one has [marginal gain feature]

> I gonna constantly be expected to work on faggots' motorcycles ("""ebikes""")?
no, most LBS's dont work on ebikes at all. there's one(1) near me that will install kits but refuse any further service on any part of the drivetrain as a result, which basically means all they will do after that is install a 3$ tube for you for 30$ and in this economy even the biggest wrenchlets will simply learn how to do the basics themselves (or get another 75$ marketplace bike to transplant parts to)

>jobs like bike mechanic are paying a bit better and there is more demand for experienced bike mechanics.
experience is a detractor because everything is proprietary and the made-up "standards" change every year.

>>2082877
That $75 bike is gonna need plenty of adjustments and likely replacement parts, and I just read a few days ago about a bike mechanic shortage in Europe. When you say low demand are you talking from actual knowledge of the state of the industry or just assuming?
>most LBSs dont work on ebikes
If that is true thats relieving to hear

>>2082879
>That $75 bike is gonna need plenty of adjustments and likely replacement parts,
again, in this economy, they wont pay 30$ for a tire change. either they'll get a real car and eat those costs, or look on youtube how to wedge a tire off

>When you say low demand are you talking from actual knowledge of the state of the industry or just assuming?
im just assuming, but based on LBSs in my area opening up and shutting down like crypto startups. the only ones that seem to survive are legit motorcycle dealerships that happen to sell ebikes too. the only "LBS" i know of that has lasted as long as I've lived here (i moved to my city somewhat recently) is a literal charity.

>>2082882
Hmm ok, ty for the input, I hope that you are wrong and that what I read about demand going up is right

>>2082885
consider your skills and whether anyone would really pay for them

what can you do for me that I can't do myself

>>2082885
totally the opposite in my city. there's more lbs's than ever. we also have bike lanes and MUPs now, so way more people are riding than before. at least one of the new shops is ebike only, another new one does both. not sure about how the older shops do it.

>>2082888
>what can you do for me that I can't do myself
for you? maybe nothing. for lazy fuck boomers and zoomers unwilling to read a Sheldon Brown article? plenty
>>2082889
based

>>2082890
>for lazy fuck boomers and zoomers unwilling to read a Sheldon Brown article? plenty
name one who wouldn't just dumpster his 10,000$ tr*k for a new 12,000 dollar model

I have an aluminium frame with a rigid aluminium fork.
I fucked up by trying to align the dropouts, and now I don't feel like using the fork anymore.
All the replacement forks readily available are have a 10-20mm longer axle to crown.
How safe is running a slightly longer fork? I don't want the frame to suddenly snap because of the extra stress/fatigue.
The bike will be used as a regular city bike.

>>2082891
most of them cannot afford that and you know it, stop being obtuse

>>2082877
>>2082877
>>2082891
I am genuinely curious, what do you ride?

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>>2082896 >>2082897 >>2083330

>>2082894

>>2082895
anon...

>>2082895
THIS FAGGOT IS NOT REAL

Everyone ITT is getting trolled. This is honestly such a fucking dumb board I can't get over it.

>>2082905
this is a dumb website for dumbs
don't like it go make ur own feggit

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>>2082924

>no funny image in the op
lets fix that

>>2082914
nooo m'ladies!

>>2082892
tbqh I wouldn't trust anything that you had wrenched on regardless of spec.

depending on the frameset 10mm longer may change geometry enough to be noticeable and those may or may not be desirable changes depending on your needs ands preferences.
durability I would not worry about so much. 20mm and there start to be question marks, again notsomuch around durability - though again it depends on the frameset. if it's one of those early alu cannondales with the sanded down welds, you are taking a risk. if it's an overbuilt frame with perfect welds the risk is obviously less.

the objectively correct thing to do is to bin your project and buy something built by someone else because you have no fucking idea what you are doing :)

>>2082936
>bin your project
literally all he did was end up with a bent fork and try unsuccessfully to align it, he doesn't need a whole fucking new bike just because his fork is fucked you absolute retard, the objectively correct thing for him to do is buy a new fork, I cannot advise on if the extra 10-20mm will be problematic as I have no experience trying it

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>>2082947

Should I get more attachments for my ebike? I already got a good lock. It doesn’t have a HUD with speedometer so might get one off egay.

>>2082944
>>>/o/

>>2082943
how strange, we frequently exchange forks between negative integers of 20-110mm here without consequence

>>2082950
?

What are some decent clothing options for longer rides besides lycra? I don't want to be encased in a plastic film, or look like a pedarast while out and about. Nor do I want the associated microplastics absorbing through my skin while riding, or shedding onto other clothing when washed.

>>2082962
a lot of winter gear is made of merino wool, I guess.
I've been cycling all my life but I've never bought any bike specific clothes. I just wear stuff I already have. it gets really hot here in the summer so I usually don't wear a shirt at all then (and carry a washcloth for sweat). if I'm riding to the store etc I just bring a shirt with me and cool down outside until the sweat quits pouring off me and my breathing is back to normal, then put the shirt on and go inside.

>>2082869
I have some questions about riding your Bike in the rain. What should I do, maintenance wise, on my bike after riding in heavy rain for a couple of hours? Keep in mind I have a simple MTB bike from walmart with exposed cables for the front and rear derailleur.

>>2082971
Store it inside, nothing special needs to be done after riding in the rain. If you wanna be really particular you can wipe it dry (especially the chain) after the ride.
Wet lube holds up better than dry lube especially when riding in rain, lube your chain with something like Finish Line Wet Lube whenever the chain starts seeming dry (or every ~150 miles), look at topnigger (link in op) for detailed directions on lubing a chain
Dont worry about the cables too much, if they ever get rusty or stiff you can oil the cables (and the derailleur pivot points and springs) with something like Dri Slide Bike Aid, but that is something you'll likely need to do only once a year or less even if you ride in the rain regularly as long as you store your bike inside (no harm doing it more often if you want to tho)

>>2082971
back when I daily commuted, I'd get caught out in the pouring rain no more than once a month usually, or maybe every 3 months minimum. so, I'd use it as an opportunity to do my regular chain maintenance since it's a little easier to clean on the bike when it's already soaked and has been knocking all the gunk loose from the motion of pedaling.
but sometimes I just didn't want to fuck with all that.
the minimum I'd do is: bounce the bike on the tires, spin wheels halfway and bounce again. then wipe down the chain with a rag, and the RD pulleys and maybe blot the gears. grip the chain with a rag and hand pedal backwards, then move to a clean spot on the rag and repeat a couple times.

BUT if I was ok with spending 20min on my chain (you have to service your chain sometimes anyway), then:
turn the hose on low/medium flow so the spray doesn't get into my bearings accidentally. pour the water over the chain. black and then grey water will come off so make sure you're not going to stain like a nice new concrete driveway or whatever. (since I use rim brakes, I'll also pour water on the rims and the surface of the brake pads now, too. grey water also comes off.)
next cover my rear rim with a rag and douse the chain with WD40, not as a lube but to Displace the Water. now take the rag and wipe down chain as already explained. bounce the water off the bike like above and go inside and use actual chain lube on the chain: one drop per roller.

it's way easier to do this than take the chain off and shake it in a jar of solvent since the crud is all loose after a wet ride and it rinses right off, and the little solvent in WD40 takes care of the rest. and you really need to wipe the chain after a soaking wet ride anyway, so it's actually the laziest way to do chain maintenance.

>>2082980
oh, after lubing, you really should always wipe off the extra since it only needs lube internally, in case you didn't already know that

Are Marino custom frames and forks good?

>>2082971
if you're a rim brake chad/loser wipe your rims. rain is dirty on its own plus road gunk splashing on there will contaminate your brakes real quick. you dont gotta bake shit in the oven and all this, a dry rag to remove the worst of the crud will suffice

modern cables are teflon coated and shouldnt rust from exposure to the elements. by the time they do they're fucked up in other ways anyway. take a blob of vaseline in a paper towel and run your chain through it (just crank it backwards by hand for like 30 seconds). you dont need to wash excess off, just run it until there aren't big blobs of it left

wd40 makes cyclists seethe for some reason but it's very good for putting on your brake posts or into your gears or w/e. helps break up some of the crud and leave at least a little bit of lubrication inbetween deep cleanings

speaking of deep cleaning if you are a niglet with rim brakes, take them entirely off, disassemble, and wash them once in a while. crud tends to build up in the housing with the return spring or between the arms and whatever they're mounted to and can fuck with adjustment or make them not return fully or consistently

>>2083006
>crud tends to build up in the housing with the return spring or between the arms and whatever they're mounted to and can fuck with adjustment or make them not return fully or consistently

never in all my years of messenging and commuting on rim has this ever happened to me. sounds like you just had bad luck with a particular set of brakes

>>2083008
it happened to me all the fucking time until i got mad at how shit they were and replaced them

some brakes are just made badly i guess, and i imagine a walmart mtb would probably have similarly cheap brakes. it's something to look at if after some inclement weather or dirty environments suddenly your brakes aren't so much weak as simply behave oddly

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>>2083021 >>2083024 >>2083025 >>2083052

what if the front chainring ran along a spindle, wouldn't it always have a perfect chainline? Some changes may be needed on the chain itself and the chainring but i don't see why it wouldn't be feasible

>>2083018
I think external factors like tilting the bike would have a greater effect on the chain line than the rear derailleurs position, just throwing the chainring around left to right on turns and bumps at least if it's just a simple as-low-friction-as-feasible system. would probably end up with issues when the chainring slides to the opposite side as the derailleur.

>>2083018
yeah but it's completely unnecessary and just chain tension alone wouldn't make it float in the right spot, you'd basically need a front derailleur type assembly that moves with your rear one so at that point why not just have a full multi ""chainring"" assembly with a derailleur instead of just the world most niggerlicious Non-Continual CVT

>>2083018
chains are designed to have side-to-side play already, literally what is the point of this

>>2083021
maybe a pre-tensioning mechanism would help it, but i think at the end the chain position would be dictated by the rear derailleur, which in change would keep everything alligned.

>>2083024
Agreed about how gheto it'd be, but even then gearboxes are too bulky and lossy as is and only feasible for e-boikes. The way some electronic gears work currently by shifting the front mech automatically would solve half of the issue, but then again i hate electronics on bikes.

>>2083025
misalignment in chains is the main source of drivetrain losses what are you on about

>>2083027
>maybe a pre-tensioning mechanism would help it,
homeboy's derailleur doesn't already have spring loading KEK WHAT A BITCH

>misalignment in chains is the main source of drivetrain losses
oh no those 0.001w you'll never get back, oml, surely your sliding front chainring is entirely frictionless and will never lose you watts as it moves around, assuming it even keeps alignment properly

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>>2083050

>>2083027
>Big Bike chooses to dump the idea of multiple front gears

>Big Bike is now shilling a complex system of moving parts to slide your chain back and forth on a single """chainring""""

Or you can retvrn

What does /n/ think of the GT Grade Carbon Elite bike? Got one a bit ago at a really good discount, partially also as a carrot to get into the hobby more. It's a really nice ride so far in my experience, but god knows if my favorite anime website doesn't approve of it then why even bother.

[spoiler] also how many of you jack off to that one instagram bike porn account[/spoiler]

>>2083041
Those toggle shifters are aids

>>2083018
Just get two chainrings
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/6bBN8Gh5Rjo

>>2083045
all new bikes are retarded

>>2082892
You'll just have slightly worse cornering. >>2083006
>wd40 makes cyclists seethe for some reason
Because people do it weong and then contaminate their brakes, be it rotors, rim braking surface and pads. Extra care has to be taken when using it. It also isn't long lasting. Yes it's good for cleaning out crud but you shouldn't count on regular wd40 as lubricant as it dries out quick

>>2082997
They have a cult following. I've heard good things about them from steel hard tail enthusiasts. I've been meaning to buy one of their forks and frames.

>>2082962
Army PT shorts are pretty good, they have built in underwear and have tiny pockets for condoms and the like

>>2083057
>Because people do it weong and then contaminate their brakes,
nah people will freak out if you use it on your chain or headtube or wherever else. lycrafags just seethe whenever you use a product that isnt Bike Specific

see also: the Muc-Off Cult

>>2083027
>misalignment in chains is the main source of drivetrain losses what are you on about
lol. lmao

>>2083068
Lycra fags don't count as their all retarded and don't know how to wrench. Majority of people who do wrench still don't like wd40 and rightfully so as it's just not good, still better than running a dry chain though

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>>2083087 >>2083091 >>2083092 >>2083093

>have to awkwardly tilt the entire bike every time you remove or install the seatpost or the seat clamp will drop into the frame and get stuck under the bottom bracket
Is Orbea retarded?

>>2083085
looks like you answered your own question

>>2083079
>still better than running a dry chain though

it is not

>>2083088
Anything is better than a dry chain. Used both WD40 and sunflower oil in a pinch and they worked fine.

>>2083085
is removing the seatpost something you regularly do? also this is pretty common for wedges

>>2083070
nice reply retard. Get me one more relevant drivetrain loss, I'm waiting.

>>2083085
>every time you remove or install the seatpost
as if I did that more than once a year?

>>2083085
lycrafags will say this is good and there is no other way to install a seatpost

>>2083092
>Get me one more relevant drivetrain loss,
gear being off axis, which will happen when you let it free float on a spindle

>>2083095
it won't be off-axis since the tension from the rear derailleur will pull it in allignment.

>>2083088
Found the retard.

>>2083102
based wd40 hater

>>2082971
a set of full coverage fenders is the best investment a rider who sometimes rides in heavy rain can possibly make.
not only does the road spray not get on you, it doesn't get on your drivetrain, brake calipers, frame.
the difference is night and day, and I wish I'd have bought them a decade earlier.

>>2083096
if it's so smart why don't you try it?

>>2083110
Fenders aren't aero and are just extra weight that loses watts.

Do you think Tadej runs fenders? Hmm wonder why he might not.... But surely you're so much better than him, you know what's best.

>>2083119
I'll consider that next time I'm riding my fendered bike through a rainstorm in a UCI sanctioned event, dipshit.

>>2083120
Post your KOM?

Ohhhh waittt you have none...

You're slow...

Definitely going to listen to your retarded opinions in the future. Keep drinking WD40 furfag retard, some of us actually ride.

>>2083121

lol, drunk or schizophrenic?

>>2083124
>clink clink glug glug
Shut the fuck up retarded WD40 drinking furfaggot. You will never have KOM and you will always be slow. Not just in the head, on the road too. Lol.

>>2083125
you seem to have me mistaken for somebody else

>>2083124
Resident troll trying new material

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>>2083182 >>2083187 >>2083190 >>2083246

Is the difference between a ball bearing and a industrial bearing front hub noticable for a normal non-ebike?

>>2083178
No, as long as the cup/cone bearing's preloead is correct and is packed with grease they will last, that being said if it does fuck up you're SOL.
Also those vlechtservice hubs are overpriced to fuck and back.

>>2083178
Cup and cone is based and the newer shimano hubs are super easy to clean and adjust

>>2083178
I got my first cartridge bearing hub a couple years ago for my fast bike. my other bike, and a lifetime of previous bikes, has cup and cone hubs.
I have not detected any difference, no.
cup and cone is not really the hassle they're made out to be. there is some care involved setting them up but afterwards you can forget about them for a long, long time. apparently they consume less watts, too, but you're not capable of noticing the difference without scientific measurements.

>>2083178
Cup and cone work fine. Only issues are that they more fiddly when worn out and that cheap hubs often lack proper dirt protection.

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>>2083273 >>2083274 >>2083288 >>2083293

>got me an old roadie
>caliper brakes because fuck you we haven't invented the technology 15 years ago
>have those tiny shitty pads that don't fucking brake, they merely slow you down
>can barely lock the rear despite slippery-ass dry-rotted 15-year old tire
what stops me from tossing those shits out and replacing them with proper pads from v-brakes, other than fredshits crying about æsthetics? i'm tired of it treating my lever pulls like suggestions.

>>2083190
>apparently they consume less watts, too
not really, but they are better at handling lateral loads, which is why most industrial bearing hubs on mtbs have three of them while cup n cones only need two (freehub not included).

>>2083247
caliper brakes have perfectly adequate stopping power if they are set up correctly with decent pads. this has never been under contention. where they are arguably inferior is in modulation.

you might have dry rotted pads, they might be out of alignment, or there could be some weird issue with pull ratio.

>>2083247
get some Kool Stop salmon or dual compound pads and they'll lock, assuming your problem isn't loose cables, or mismatched levers and calipers, and further assuming your rims aren't covered in crap

>>2083274
Dont worry I clean and oil my rims regularly to keep them clean and shiny

>>2083247
such calipers are flexy. given they can not impart much force its best to use softer pads.
>proper pads from v-brakes
due to their length the tips can wear out early, caused by the brake twisting forward under load.
they also have less pad depth, so have to be replaced more often in general.

>>2083288
you need to stop making shit up at random or at least go back to /x/ where they like that

>>2083247
Dude if your pads are ancient they're probably rock hard and will absolutely work like shit. You can get pads of the same size and they will work fine. Koolstoo makes pads for nearly any brake you can think of. You can also just get regular ones.

32" bikes look so stupid

My steel bike doesn't have any drainage holes on the bottom of the fork near the dropouts. Is this an issue?
Can I get away with just spraying some frame saver on the inside of the fork blades?

>>2083287
oh, you're good then

>>2083303
I'm not sure this is relevant to your question, but fyi those holes are "weep holes" for displacing hot welding gas during manufacturing, afaik.
but anyway, putting frame saver everywhere inside a steel bike is standard practice so yes, but perhaps not for the reason you're assuming (which I can't figure out)

>>2083308
My concern is rust from trapped moisture and condensation, since it has nowhere to go.
The only holes are inside the crown where the fork blades are attached.

>>2083296
Hey anon! Welcome to /n/! Just want to let you know that this thread is for questions and answers, not for stating random indisputable objective facts. Thanks

>>2083313
Put your fork in the oven to remove all condensation and then fill in the holes with glue. Voila no moisture can ever get int

Why is the FUCKTARDED industry putting c*rbon forks on metal frames constantly lately and when will this retarded trend end?

>>2083327
Never, because of muh dampening

>>2082870
Asides from professional teams, bike mechanic will always be a job for college students or local dude bro's.
>>2082895
I bet those braps feel good on your dangling nuts

>>2083330
>bike mechanic will always be a job for college students or local dude bro's.
You forgot s third option, bike autists.

>>2083329
only makes sense if you are talking about alu frames, retarded and irrelevant on steel frames
>>2083332
based

>>2083333
But but muh dampening, how will I have muh dampening without a carbon fork. I was told I can only get dampening with a carbon fork. You can't do this to me

>>2082870
>If I get back into the industry am I gonna constantly be expected to work on faggots' motorcycles ("""ebikes""")
yes but also you'll have to work on faggots' $11,000 carbon race bikes (taken out twice a week after work and on saturday morning) with wireless shifting and wireless fork lockouts (need to maximize that 25mm of travel) and wireless brakes (not yet but coming soon)

>>2083342
>wireless fork lockouts
what

>>2083343
technically thats not the worst or even newest horror
https://velo.bike/review/magura-elect
https://ridefox.com/pages/float-x-neo-learn-more

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>>2083092
>as if I did that more than once a year?
You do that after a couple years, forget about the retarded wedge design and then spend the next 30 minutes shaking the bike like a madman trying to get it unstuck because it drops into the frame the moment you remove the seatpost.

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>>2083360

>>2083343
>he doesn't know

ludditebro we have AI dropper posts

its crazy to me that people chase like 100 grams worth of weight saving and the multitool i keep in my bike kit is 250g. random people end up using my tools more than i do because they don't bother carrying basic shit

>>2083344
>>2083350
Horrifying
>>2083352
If its bc they are a noob help them and advise them on what tool to bring next time, if its a weight weeny laugh at them for being too weak to pedal another 250g in addition to their fat body

>>2083352
based tool carrying domestique. now go to the team car and bring me my gilet, i'm cold.

>>2083367
faggot

>>2083369
settle down
don't need to be upset, just give me the tool when i ask for it
also give me a gel now

>>2083373
fat fuck

>>2083373
Here's your lukewarm, chunky energy gel, "bro" :)

>>2083375
BASED

any good, cheap chinesium 10sp hyperglide cassettes?

>>2083433
absolutely

>>2083433
what's cheap for you

I tried watching some GCN during my break at work and holy shit. are all Cyclists™ this retarded?

>>2083449
no but """people""" watching GCN in current year are

>>2083433
Just buy tiagra/deore from Ali

>>2083437
like $40 for a whole cassette with mostly steel teeth+some aluminum granny gears

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>>2083569 >>2083985

my bike makes metallic ticking noises in high gears (8th only when pedaling fast and 9th) only when under torque (pedaling by foot), i can't replicate the issue when pedaling by hand.
the noises seems to be coming from the chainring area not from cassette.
the noise's frequency increases with cadence
i suspect it's the chinese pedals.

>>2083478
I don't think you can even get a sunrace or microshit cassette for that price

>>2083553
Check your cranks. Remove them and clean our the square taper. I thought I har something wrong with the pedals and it was the cranks. First they got a little loose and then got some dirt on the tapers. No matter how much I would torque them down they would still make the noise. I took off the cranks and found the square taper mating surface to be covered in crap. Once I cleaned it off it was fine.

>>2083478
searching ali for "ten speed cassette" yields results as low as $5. there's hundreds cheaper than $40. although, buy the $5 one in addition to whatever you choose, tell us if it's any good

>>2083569
not him but good info

>>2083590
My 9v cassette I got from ali for ~7 bux has help up fine for months now on my ebike

>>2083332
>/n/ bike autist gets job at bike shop
>told to build a bike with an electronic groupset
>flies into a howling rage
>asked to fix a flat on an ebike
>goes completely nonverbal
>tasked with bleeding some disc brakes
>arrested after running down the street naked covered in his own shit

>>2083598
>>told to build a bike with an electronic groupset
>>flies into a howling rage
yes
>>asked to fix a flat on an ebike
>>goes completely nonverbal
no, howling rage for that too
>>tasked with bleeding some disc brakes
>>arrested after running down the street naked covered in his own shit
fuck no that's gross as fuck you faggot nigger, I would just bleed the brakes as long as they are on a bicycle not a motorcycle ("""""""ebike"""""""), if they are on a motorcycle then howling rage :)

>>2083332
>>2083598
im an ebike enjoyer so i would do all these things except the elctronic groupset (while i would shit talk them severely the real issue is they lack service manuals)

What is the correct price for a ~40t sproket? I'm looking at a 20ish one for 20bux but the price increases lineraly per tooth, basically. I don't want to pay 40-45bux for a 42t gear when it's just a solid piece of metal drilled out at the sides. but is that normal?

>>2083625
anywhere from 25 to 90 dollars
some cheap options include:
TruVativ Trushift 42T x 104mm BCD Steel Ring Black V4 $25
Full Speed Ahead DH Pro MTB Chainring - 42t, 104 BCD, 4-Bolt, Aluminum, Black $33 (also available in 40t)
Promax 4-Bolt Chainring - 42t, 104 BCD, Black $30

Those are all available from QBP (QBP does not sell to individual customers but any local bike shop can get them), obviously you need to make sure its the right BCD and bolt count (4 vs 5) for your bike

Protip: Those prices are retail prices; the bike shop pays QBP about half that much so if you special order through a bike shop and really wanna be a jew you might be able to talk them down a little, they will still profit

disclaimer: I do not know if the ones I listed are good quality, they are just some of the cheapest options currently available from qbp in the 40-42t range
There are many other options in the $40-90 range

>>2083641
thanks grok

>>2083644
Not grok you fucking retard, I have access to qbp bc I worked for a lbs so I looked them up and copied and pasted the cheapest options bc normies like (you) do not have access to the qbp catalog

I bought a cheap colnago and a kickr core2 hometrainer to use over the winter.

The RD (and a little bit FD) and shifters need adjustments on the trainer.

How can I set the lowest resistance on the trainer?

The RD doesnt sound like it needs adjustments when its on the wheel but its noisy on the trainer - but only on the two smallest cogs.

>>2083657
>How can I set the lowest resistance on the trainer?

straightest chainline

>The RD doesnt sound like it needs adjustments when its on the wheel but its noisy on the trainer - but only on the two smallest cogs.

that's kinda normal. you often need to mess with the barrel adjusters a tiny bit when changing cogsets or wheelsets or whatever.

indoor trainers aren't for everyone, temper your expectations. shit absolutely sucks, even with zwift and whatnot. some people just seem to be able to suffer through but for my part I am much happier freezing my ass off

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>>2083672

Dumping a few pictures from my 7 year old Vilano Forza 3.0. The bottom bracket started making noise bad noise a couple weeks ago, then a grinding sensation, then the noise disappeared and the axle developed a wobble. Turns out the one of the bearings disintegrated

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>>2083673

>>2083671
I had to put a wrench on my wrench to get enough torque to get the drive side cup off

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>>2083687

>>2083672
The same contraption stripped the non-drive side (shown here with before I obliterated the threads by jumping on the wrench). I'm probably going to dremel or hacksaw cup next. Anyone got advice?

>>2083663
Straight chainline? Not sure what you mean but it feels like the brakes are applied on the trainer and trying to spin the pedals by hand in the smallest cogs is difficult - more so if i need to adjust the limiters.

Or maybe you mean something elsr anon?

Yeah the normal noise is fine, its just the 2-3 smallest cogs that are super loud and vibrate.

>>2083673
eh... I'd lay it cup-down and spray penetrating oil on it through the opposite hole and let it sit overnight before fucking with it. looks like you have a bolt through the BB shell with washers keeping the contraption in place which was what I was going to suggest until I saw you did it. if you hadn't done the penetrating oil yet, I'd apply that and retry the contraption once more.
but otherwise yeah, like a Dremel cutting wheel or etc. is maybe what I'd try. be careful to leave a little of the cup thickness intact so as not to ruin the threads on the shell, then just crack the cup the rest of the way off with a hammer and screwdriver is what I'd try to do. a few nicks in the threads is probably nbd but I wouldn't want to gouge it.

>>2083687
of course, over tightening the bolt through the contraption will not allow the cup to unscrew, there needs to be a slight looseness to allow it to give. I've made that mistake before

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>>2083693 >>2083694 >>2083722

>>2082869
So is there a helmet that's like a moto helmet (covers head) but isn't exaggeratedly big to ride while in the rain?

>>2083692
If you want a full face helmet, get a downhill mountain bike helmet.
If you dont want full face but want more coverage than a typical bike helmet, a lot of mountain bike helmets come a bit lower in back and sometimes also on the sides compared to road helmets and shitty walmart helmets.
I dont really understand your question though, all helmets cover head, and moto helmets are not "exaggeratedly big", they are the correct size to serve their purpose.
I think you are probably retarded.
If you want a full face helmet just make sure the one you get is designed for mountain biking, not motorcycling, because motorcycle helmets require more force to compress and therefore absorb less impact force in a bicycle crash (since its lower speed than a motorcycle crash), so while a moto helmet might SEEM safer its actually less safe in a bicycle crash. But, there are mountain bike helmets that cover your whole face and look identical to moto helmets.
So even if a moto helmet and downhill mtb helmet look identical there is a big difference in how they are built. Use moto helmet for moto, use mountain bike helmet for biking

>>2083692
If you are just trying to keep your head dry lol just wear a hooded rain jacket, depending on how big the hood is, it should fit over or under a regular bicycle helmet.
All bicycle helmets except some full face mountain bike helmets and some really expensive aero race helmets have ventilation holes. You could go ultra autist and cruise around town in a TT helmet I guess lmao

>>2083693
>I think you are probably retarded.
Yes that's it. Otherwise thanks for both suggestions. Guess I was thinking of something along the lines of your normal helmet and a jason mask.

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>>2083699 >>2083714 >>2083720 >>2083868

I have been wanting to change my wheels but there's one thing: The diameter of the axlehub of the new wheel is slightly smaller (can't be seen on the pics), it's some millimeters smaller, would this difference be significant enough safetywise? I already had my back wheel changed without any problems even though the diameter was different too (as well as the OLD). The front wheels axels are the same lenght though (100 mm)

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>>2083868

>>2083698

>>2083696
what are you even trying to accomplish and why? you mentioned rain and moto helmets. you want rain protection or extra crash protection or something that looks cool or what? your posts seem so incoherent and random

>>2083698
some of the older front axels are 14 mm

Why don't they make good flat pedals without metal pins? I need some for commuting but they all seem to either tear my soles up or have plastic bushing slop on the inside that develops play after like a month. Any recs?

>>2083717
Some have removable/replacable pins.
Alternatively, if you are ok with plastic outer, Welgo makes some with metal inner and no pins (LU-C32 and C098).
But if you want high end/all metal, just get some with replacable pins and remove the pins.

>>2083717
mks lambda (my favroite), allways, bubble pedals are all super comfortable, generally pinless. you can also go oldschool with their sylvan or track pedals. u cannot beat MKS for price. great bearing quality and races. i have mks pedals from 60 years ago that spin great. lambdas are 60$ but theyll prob outlast your bike.

>>2083698
You should own a set of cheapo calipers to check things like this but honestly it will be fine as long as you push the axle as far as it goes into the dropouts and tighten it properly

>>2083714
Yeah I meant 140, they both are 140 mm in length, the diameter is different

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>>2083692
There a few enduro helmets with removable chin bars
This plus goggles is probably your best option although abus I think makes a 3/4 helmet with a visor like a ski helmet

>>2083717
try MKS Lambda.
I'll sell you a good pair if you're in ATL

>>2083717
>I need some for commuting
I got some nice metal flats with no pins for commuting and they were great but one giant problem: in the rain, the grip completely disappeared and it was all I could do to not slip off. when you're commuting, you must ride rain or shine, so unfortunately I had to ditch those pedals.
for rain, you either need foot retention or pins/heavy ridges, but really pins. I also tried BMX pedals with lots of bumps and they were better, but only pins keep my foot on when wet.
like anon said, if your shoes get tore up, get the kind with adjustable pins and dial them down until they trap your wet shoe but hopefully don't tear them up

>>2083717
what if I told you that the pins can be removed

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>>2083717

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>>2083717
I have those removable Promend pedals on my Paratrooper, all aluminium and gentle on the shoes. I think they sell them as regular non-removable pedals too.

getting my cannondale h500 in working order, 'boutta get the fuck rid of these gripshifts (replaced cables and housings and they just feel like ass, probably fucked up the replacement but they were ass nevertheless) and replace them with shimano sl-m315. any reason why old 3x8speed deore lx/stx wouldnt work with those new shifters?

>>2083809
should work, non-cues shammy mtb groups up to 9 speed and road up to 10 have the same 1.7 cable pull so the derailleurs are interchangeable
you can do the funny and shift a shitty 7-speed tourney freewheel with an old ultegra

>friday i noticed my tires felt a little low on air (700x25c road bike tires)
>had gone 1000+ miles on them without a flat
>pump them up to 100 PSI
>saturday morning i get a flat on the rear that's on the valve side on a ride
>fix it, pump to 90 psi, ride rest of day saturday and sunday no problems
>this morning
>front tire is flat, find a tiny little thorn in the tire than caused it
i swear to fucking christ it seems like every FUCKING time i pump the tires back up after hundreds or 1000+ miles of nothing, i get a flat right away.

i wonder if im pumping it up too high. im gonna see if 90 is better, the tire's range is 80-120. i figured maybe the rear was overinflated even though it was only at 100 because it was valve side and i have two layers of rim tape on. but the front one suddenly getting a tiny little wood sliver in it that caused a flat immediately after pumping it ? what the hell

>5mm thru-holes halfway up a steel fork, non-threaded
the fuck can I use these for, some nice front rack? seems like the light mounts and stuff expect the hole to be M5 threaded but this one isn't

>>2083838
silca.cc/pages/pro-tire-pressure-calculator

>>2083720
This anon >>2083699 >>2083698
Here again, I think I have found the right nuts for the axel and it looked like it worked, but I can't seem to get it fully tight. At least one of the nuts just keep going looser just when it feels like it would be tightened up, the nut slightly seems to go away from the fork.

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>>2083879 >>2083893

Same anon here >>2083868
I think it might be the nuts, while they easily go on the axle... They don't seem too be perfectly straight on it, sonI might just have the wrong nuts. Does anyone know which kind (or size) this one needs?

>>2083877
you should be able to find the spec sheet online.
Google the serial number and "Shimano" and some PDFs should come up

why are disc brake hubs and forks so hard to find for cheap? every bso has em, but the cheapest chink slop i can find costs as much as just going to walmart and getting an entire new bike just to rip the fork off it

>>2083864
racks usually "expect" a threaded hole to mate to, so yes, but you will need to supply a couple of NUTS

>>2083882
I think he's asking why the fork-maker drilled it without threading it. I've never heard of that, either, so he's asking is it smooth bore for something specific since your regular rack or bottle cage mounts are usually threaded

>>2083887
it's probably just being cheap or a manufacturing defect

brake mount holes arent threaded so maybe whatever 14 year old taiwanese business magnate is having them manufactured figured skipping out on threading for one hole is worth the savings even if it confuses anon

especially since mainline bike manufacturers are all niggers who will put 90000 "bottle bosses" (also not threaded then and instead use rivnuts, usually with weird spacing or sizing for some proprietary "cargo system") but refuse to make any affordance for disc brakes or pannier supports so most aftermarket racks come with extra hardware anyway. for reasons only the chinese understand sometimes pannier racks come with quick release bolts, even

>>2083877
Have you inspected your threads? Sounds like stripped threads. Had that with a wheel one time.

>>2083864
Buy a rivnut gun on amazon, drill out the holes to fit m5 rivet nuts and install them. Return the rivnut gun.

>>2083894
>non-threaded
>through hole
>rivnut
yeap /n/ still is /n/, good I checked.

>>2083907
well you see, bottle bosses are rivnuts. therefore rivnuts are better they are the Bike Way, you cant just use a normal nut!!

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>>2083910 >>2083946 >>2083983 >>2083984

>>2083889
>>2083894
it's the old cannondale h500 i asked about earlier so it should be MADE IN MURICCA quality whatever that means to you, the holes are 5mm so an m5 drops down it but not totally snug.

I decided to overhaul the powertrain completely, buying new front/rear mech and going 3x9speed with new crankset (new chainring woulda been as much as a new crankset and this set is 175mm, too long)

>>2083909
oh i thought you meant they were on little nubs like accessory holes usually are

those might have been for indexing/mounting when it was made and painted/accessorized and just handy for random shit later since you can slide a bolt through

theres another hole down near the dropout that looks simply punched. that one is probably for strain/expansion/pressure relief during welding

>>2083909
you could put a helicoil insert in there and then they could be threaded for m5 (or another thread if you for some reason wanted that)
I guess someone forgot a step at the factory and it made it past QC?

>>2083909
i have had like 10 diff vintage cannondales with this style touring fork, they are all like that. they never have threads. its for a thru bolt front rack or bolt on light hanger.

>>2083909
u are supposed to use an M5 nut and a nylon locking washer to mount the front rack thru this hole. ive done it on a late 80s cannondale sport touring bike. btw, RIP cannondale.

>>2083553
check ur spoke tension. often times, noise alongside cadence can either be crank, crankset, but under load its often a bad spoke, only deflecting and rubbing against another under the right speed/load

>>2083893
I don't know, how can I check? What can I do?

>>2084045
not the same hub but from a FH-NN300-HM review:
"The hub does not come with nuts, and it does not use standard M10 nuts—it requires 3/8" 26 TPI. I visited four local shops, simply trying to find the correct nuts, but none of them had them in stock. In the end, I had to completely rebuild the brand-new hub and replace the axle with a standard M10 version at a shop. Ultimately, I ended up paying twice the original price due to the cost of the new axle and labor."
https://www.bike24.com/p2827343.html?origin=CP
though there's another review which says he got the nuts included with the hub, ymmv

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>>2084105 >>2084115

This thing is kinda a shitbike i got it running and it rides great and glides down the road, i want to ride it around town but im honestly scared of theft because it is my dad's old bike, what options do i have to make sure it doesn't get yoinked

How do you deal with the boredom of cycling long distances?

>>2084101
For one thing do your qr up inside the frame so its doesn't get knocked open

>>2084105
The quick release on the wheels? Figured orientation didn't matter but if we're all supper straight here then I'll get it oriented the right direction

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>>2084116

>>2084101
this is the best locking method. you can skip the cable for the wheel if you get security skewers.
but if the thief uses a cordless angle grinder, then no lock can stop them.
if you live in a city big enough that someone can run an angle grinder and nobody will notice/do anything, then you can't really leave it for more than a few minutes at a time. a lot of places don't mind if you bring it in.
although old=hard to sell and you have DTs, so it's not likely to be specifically targeted. less so if new bikes are locked on the same rack.

>>2084115
I simply live in a High Trust Society

Why are cordless angle grinders even legal? There was literally NO WAY to steal a properly locked bike before they invented the cordless angle grinder.

>every shill outlet says rim brakes are the only way to stop le bike
>finding an affordable hub with >HOLES for disc rotors is nearly impossible
>give up and just get a normal replacement wheel
>it arrives
>it has no way to mount rotors
>it has no flat surfaces so rim brakes can work
Why are bike manufacturers such fucking retarded niggers who hate braking?