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    File: shit-rock.jpg (26 KB, 480x639)
    26 KB JPG
    what is best why to Remove&Replace rock when doing plumping etc repairs?

    Tear off the whole shit and replace with new full sheets?

    Use fancy little recipo saw to carefully remove pieces then glue and screw wood to back side to use same piece of rock to patch?

    Buzz down center of studs using straight edge and sheetrock dremel?

    cut along stud with rock-saw then add 3/4" new wood to support new rock?

    Other?

    Case by case?
    >>
    >>3012810
    I'm thinking set up a piece of plywood and skillsaw and jigsaw just to make "L" and "U" shapes to glue and screw to backside for supports, since a full L or U would be stronger, and serve as backing for mud to bridge gaps.

    What about some metal mesh that would work with drywall screws and suck up to backside and some mud or glue, and be stiff enough to act as backing and accept a screw and suck tight against new sheetrock?
    >>
    Screw to the backing on the new and old drywall. Flat tape around extrusions.
    >>
    >Use fancy little recipo saw to carefully remove pieces then glue and screw wood to back side to use same piece of rock to patch?
    It's literally always this
    >>
    >>3012810
    Cut out a nice squared up piece of drywall a couple inches larger than the hole. Use this as a template to mark the wall. Use the marks to cut a matching nice squared up hole in the will. Attach some 1x2s as shown in your image. Screw in the patch, mud, tape, mud, sand. Remember that mud sticks to the paper face or to tape, putting it onto bare gypsum doesn't work.

    The first time you do it, it will look like shit. By the 4th or 5th, it will be better than what 90% of professional mudmen do (because most of them gave up on life and switched to crystal meph).
    >>
    >>3013117
    good tips

    OP here, I'm an actual carpenter but do very little rock and basically no repair stuff.

    I like big rock saws.https://www.drywalltooldepot.com/Walboard-15-Drywall-Saw-Extra-Stiff-Blade-p/drywall-saw.htm

    I zip tie one of these for pouch for small standard size keyhole rock saw. https://www.walmart.com/ip/Hyper-Tough-Small-Vehicle-Engine-Funnel-Htsmf-2020-Gray

    Keeps saw teeth from cutting bags and keeps dust out of bags and keeps hands clean and not all dried from rock dust.
    >>
    >>3012810
    That's drywall dumbass
    >>
    >>3013193
    real tradesmen such as myself use only one syllable
    >>
    >>3013193
    He's trying to shorten sheetrock. He probably wanted to do the /ck/ thing and say 'ock but then we'd make fun of him for handling cock.

    >>3012810
    Cut out to a stud if possible and/or use furring strip or 1x3/1x4 like in the pic. If the hole is larger than maybe 12 inches each way definitely go to the stud unless you can't because of a cabinet or whatever.
    >>
    File: MT332A3-2.jpg (98 KB, 768x768)
    98 KB JPG
    >>3012810
    >>3013252
    Also one of these sum'bitches with a flush cut blade(second from right) makes a really clean straight cut with basically zero effort. Pretty much every tool brand makes one depending on your flavor of battery, harbor freight probably sells a corded one for about $30 if I had to bet.
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