In the fight against corrosion:post lubricantspost cold bluepost woodcare jizzPost every weapon we have in the fight against time, and that one friend with the strangley acidic skin whom you now require to wipe down guns he's touched.We're here to sort out; grandpa's favorite versus today's hyper-quantum lubes, good old linseed oil versus a Pledge brand product.God loves a clean weapon.
>>65621759I think you know. You get a quality wood filler in there. Use a toothpick and pinstripe brush to copy the grain... clear that over nice. She'll buff out.
>>65621759Make way for the mandatory Ballistol post.>pleasant scent>food save>great for skincare>increadible for lubrication>also works for guns
>>65621773The problem is I like advertising and buzzwords and often buy things because of them.
>>65621775You are the reason shit ass companies like facebook not only exist, but thrive.REPENT YOU FUCKING NIGGER.
>>65621759Went from Hoppes to Lucas Oil CLP and haven't looked back once.
>>65621773But shill anon, is it true I can drink it?
>>65621793You can drink anything you want anon, don't let society dictate you diet.
>>65621779NANO. This lube is Nano and ballistol is NOT Nano. Therefore ballistol lacks technologie, and I win.
Is the standard GI lube good stuff or low rent government junk?
>>65621818>MADE HEREShow me the fine print...
>>65621825Notice the "Manufactured FOR" not manufactured at
>>65621830ThisAll your Mexican GM crate motors have this tag on them
>>65621825>>65621830>>65621928Americans cannot into Quantum Lubrication™®℠©
>>65621759I just use raw linseed oil on everything wood or metalIf your gun doesn't have an oil finish its a piece of shit anyway
>>65621949I only shoot while in a fine petrochemical mist
>>65621928This is only tangentially related, but about a decade ago I was an apprentice mechanic at a very old workshop, helping clear out some old garbage out of a storage area and sifting through it for anything that might be useful.Among all that shit was a can of original GM Hydramatic-brand automatic transmission fluid from the early 1960s (Dex-1 from before Dex-2 was a thing).One the back of the can they proudly boasted that it was made using only the finest imported Norwegian whale oil.Turns out Dex-2 was the whale-free version introduce by GM in anticipation of a global ban on commercial whaling.
>>65621972How did the whale oil taste anon
>>65621972I would put that shit right into an oil lamp so i could feel that old sailor energy.
>>65621972Just in case, put an ounce sample in a totally airtight container. We may need it for some weird scientific reason.
Whatever you guys got, my Gold Guard is better. Best to seal up surfaces below the stock, grips and so on. Have a ugly and cringe KI images, its working like Cosmoline but with a solvent
>>65621759>post lubricantsBallistol for BP, coconut oil diluted with Heet and applied via spray bottle for everything else.>post cold blueOxpho-Blue sucks, but it's as good as any and is better than most. One step above a Sharpie, but that's as good as cold blue gets.>post woodcare jizzLinseed oil for a working rifle as our lord and savior decreed, and not that faggy boiled shit either. If you're interested in a safe queen art project you have other options.>that one friend with the strangley acidic skinIf he wants to go shooting with you, he can bring his own guns.Any other questions?
>>65621759Speaking of >>65623170>Linseed oil for a working rifleI'm tempted to shellac my hunting rifle. The poly is super thin and getting beat to shit. With a fresh card scraper or even like 400 grit I could throw a nice thin layer on that thing. I have some shellac chips and I like the application. Easy on, fast cure, easy to sand. Touchups are as easy as getting my applicator out of the jar and dabbing it. I think you might also be able to get a piece of cloth damp with alcohol and smooth the finish over fresh damage a few times before it needs more applied. It's not the strongest but it's just so easy to fix up as compared to any other stain, varnish, or urethane. I've had guns before where the touchups on urethane just would not color match and I had to strip the whole damn thing. At least with shellac you can spot touch, which may be ideal considering the major (but shallow) scuffing of the wood on my rifle. Some is from rests at the range not being padded, a lot is from just putting miles and miles down month after month hunting. Wouldn't be surprised if I've walked over 100 miles with that thing total. Only thing I have to watch for is some shellac seems to almost be dyed. I bought "red" (purple) and it just made my applicator fucking mauve. The dye sits on top of the wood, too. Looks real bad. The blonde is good, though.
>>65623253>shellac my hunting rifleReconsider. It's a shit finish for gun stocks.>some shellac seems to almost be dyedThe good stuff isn't dyed, it comes out of the bug's ass that color. It's also unfortunately not cheap.>dye sits on top of the woodThe shellac sits on top of the wood, anon.Linseed oil avoids all of this, including color matching concerns.
Learn from the best, boys.https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Weapons_Cache_CaseAfter ww2, Finnish army was ordered (according to the peace treaty) to disarm. Finns, knowing Russians/soviets, thought that this was just a noose around their own necks, and decided to engage in mass-scale hidden weapons caches. Loads and loads of weapons "disappeared" from military records and were quietly hidden (and literally buried underground) in a big operation to ensure that even if the soviets would go back on thei words (russians betraying their treaties? really?) there would be enough emergency guns and ammo to supply a small army of men for resistance operations. Queote from Finnish: "aseet säilöttiin paksuihin, vedettömiin mineraaliöljypohjaisiin suojarasvoihin, joista käytettiin yleisnimityksiä asevaseliini tai tykistörasva. Kansainvälisesti vastaavaa paksua, petrolipohjaista pitkäaikaissäilytykseen tarkoitettua korroosiosuojarasvaa kutsutaan nimellä kosmoliini (cosmoline)."Translation: The guns were stored in thick, non-water mineral-based protective oils, which were called with generic terms "Protective Grease" or "Artillery Oil". Internationally, the same kind of thick, petrol-based corrosion-protective oils are called Cosmoline". So if you need to bury huge caches of weapons underground for possible future occupation and resistance work, it's Cosmoline. Accept no substitute.
>>65624479>it's Cosmoline. Accept no substitute.Regular 0%-water yellow or white Vaseline is a good option for long term storage if Cosmoline is unavailable.
>>65624506Actually a fair assesment. A medical grade vaseline is also a good addition to your medical boo-boo bag. Not the trauma kit, but the small cuts and bruises and ibuprofen-kind of boo-boo bag. In fact, I heard from the Red Cross staff who were sent to (nondescript-for-opsec) middle eastern refugee camps, that that's one of the most common items that their field hospitals often lack: Just some basic bitch lotions and vaseline. Just something that soothes that rash you've got, so you can sleep better. Seriously, get a small portion of medical vaseline into your medikit. It's going to pay itself back.
>>65624544A coworker of mine that knew I had a bunch of guns once gave me several crates of army-spec gun grease from the 1950s (thin grease cut with a solvent, basically old fashioned CLP) packaged in industrial 1L steel paint cans.We're talking multiple lifetime supplies of this shit. I think he inherited it from some deceased relative and didn't know what to do with it.Regardless, the grease manufacturer just printed on the labels on the cans that for long term storage, their own brand of industrial Vaseline should be used instead of their regular gun grease. According to them, the Vaseline it's so thick that it doesn't evaporate and it continues to provides good protection from corrosion for decades, provided that the guns are stored in reasonably dry conditions.I have every reason to believe that they knew what they were talking about.Any given water-free Vaseline should work pretty well for preserving steel during prolonged storage, it's all more or less the same thick and sticky petroleum grease.
>>65624410I'm going to put a thin coat on a small section on the bottom of the stock to see how it holds up before I do anything drastic, which I'd say I'm waiting until spring or summer for. And yeah I bought a super cheap ass bag of it so it's probably dyed. The blonde is straight shellac though. I kinda want an orange shellac if it holds up decent. Shellac is way better at showing shimmer and grain than linseed. Linseed smells good, but shellac doesn't have a scent and it dries quick as fuck. Linseed doesn't have colormatch worries either if you strip and redo it in linseed but neither does shellac. Whatever urethane (?) is on it right now is super thin. Great for looks initially but the corners wear fast to the point it looks like one of those faux wear builds where every corner gets hit with one of those green abrasive pads until all the edges shine.
>>65624506>>65624544Yep I use Vaseline where scent or lack of shit that will give me cancer is required. PS: A kinda related product, petroleum wax, is pretty fucking good short term. No scent, either. Go to a craft store like Hobby Lobby or buy Gulf Wax in the canning aisle. Trappers boil traps with a layer of wax on top and slowly pull them out through the floating wax to rustproof traps and lube them. They also break up, shave, or blend wax and heat up a pot of sand until it hits a little higher than wax melt temp and stir the wax in. Scent free if you don't burn it; beeswax or onions wax is not and animals tend to smell it (and sometimes eat it). A layer of that under, around, and over a trap will waterproof, freeze-proof, and protect a trap. It would likely require a lot but around a box, it would keep all water out. The water literally beads up and sits on top or rolls off and soaks into surrounding soil. Kinda amazing.
OK gun fags, almost any oil will block the effects of oxygen as in oxidation if you use enough of it. I have found that guns in storage develop a problem in the receiver where the brass meets the steel. The oil does not stick in that area and extraction becomes difficult. Clean the area smooth, even with fine abrasives. One chamber was so bad the brass stuck and the rim broke before the spent cartridge moved. An empty case with some polish mounted on a stick turned with a drill got it to work.
>I got wordfilteredLol fuck it didn't even occur to me. Rhymes with Toy.
Woord to the wise. Gun oil smells. If you keep your piece in a chest rig near your armpit, the warm oil will give away your concealed carry. Use food grade oil mixed with vaseline
>>65624714>if it holds up decentIt won't. That's what I'm trying to tell you. Shellac is beautiful when done properly, isn't hard to apply (although it is hard to apply *well*), and is technically easy to repair if you're not too concerned about an exact color match. It's not waterproof and it's not durable at all. On a jewelry box or a wooden mantelpiece it's wonderful, but on a rifle stock it's dogshit.
>>65624479but Finns are insane...
